In the charming city of Lucknow, once home to the Nawabs of Awadh, an exquisite culinary gem is making a comeback. Mutanjan, a unique dessert that marries meat and rice with sweet and savory flavors, is gaining attention once again. At Lebua Lucknow, a 1930s estate-turned-boutique-hotel, Chef Mohsin Qureshi is reviving this forgotten delicacy that was once a staple on connoisseurs’ tables during Bakrid celebrations.
Originating from the Perso-Arabic term “Mutajjan,” meaning ‘fried in a pan,’ mutanjan defies easy classification. Despite its Middle Eastern roots, the Indian subcontinental version we know today evolved over centuries, fusing foreign and indigenous influences. Its history intertwines with royal kitchens and rich cultural memories, making it a dish layered with significance.
Historical records trace mutanjan’s presence back to the Mughal era, with references by grand vizier Abu’l Fazl and in the writings of 17th-century Mughal manuscripts. This regal dish transitioned from the royal kitchens to the common streets, becoming an egalitarian street delight. Across the border in Pakistan, mutanjan has taken on a different form, featuring vibrant colors and a blend of dried fruits and nuts, a carnival of flavors on a plate.
Today, finding authentic mutanjan is a challenge, often mistaken for similar sweetened rice dishes. Yet, a few aficionados and skilled chefs keep the tradition alive. One such place is Babu Shahi Bawarchi’s Bhatiyarkhana near the Old Fort in Delhi, where Hafiz Miyan crafts fragrant pots of mutanjan on request. This dessert, with its unique blend of meat, rice, and sweetness, showcases the remarkable interplay of culinary history and cultural evolution.
Source: BBC
